Ikutha

Ikutha is a small town located 100 kilometres south of Kitui Town, along the Kitui-Kibwezi highway. The climate in the Ikutha region is generally dry, and temperatures can be quite high.

Although Ikutha is not a very big urban centre, it hosts several important institutions. Among these are:

Ikutha Level 4 Hospital

This medical facility, which is run by the government, was officially opened in March 2017, and is the largest hospital in the area.

Fig. 1: The Ikutha Level 4 Hospital

Fig. 2: The Ikutha Level 4 Hospital

Ikutha Girls

Ikutha Girls is a public secondary school located within Ikutha Town.

Africa Inland Church Ikutha

This is the historical church that is the original mission station of the Africa Inland Mission (AIM) which was set up by German Missionary Johannes Hofmann and his wife, Emilie, in 1895. From here the AIM spread to the rest of Kenya (and other parts of East Africa) and eventually became established as the Africa Inland Church (AIC).

Fig. 3: The plaque at the gate of AIC Ikutha (Courtesy: AIC Ikutha)

Fig. 4: The old church building constructed by missionary Hofmann at AIC Ikutha 

(Courtesy: AIC Ikutha)

Fig. 5: An old church bell at AIC Ikutha (Courtesy: AIC Ikutha)

Fig. 6: The burial site at AIC Ikutha where missionary Hofmann and his family were laid to rest

(Courtesy: AIC Ikutha)

Fig. 7: The new church building presently being used for worship at AIC Ikutha

(Courtesy: AIC Ikutha)

Other amenities at Ikutha include a fresh produce market and several other churches. With the recent tarmacking of the Kitui-Kibwezi Road, the main streets of Ikutha have also been tarmacked and this has enhanced the beauty of the town.

The Ikutha Level 4 Hospital and the AIC Ikutha church are built at the edge of Ikutha Town, from where one has a perfect view of the Tiva River valley below and the Yatta Plateau in the distance. From this vantage point a small gap can be seen on the plateau. The gap is referred to by locals as mwanyani (the Kamba word for ‘gap’ or ‘space’). The Kitui-Kibwezi Highway has been constructed through that gap on its way to Kibwezi.

Fig. 8: The Yatta Plateau as seen from Ikutha, with the Tiva River valley below  

Fig. 9: Business premises at Ikutha Town

Fig. 10: A street in Ikutha Town

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Drive From Kitui to Migwani

Today we will take a virtual drive from Kitui Town to Migwani Town and back through different routes. As always, we will discuss distances and directions in our travel with reference to Kitui Town, which is the administrative headquarters and largest urban centre in Kitui County.

Kitui to Kabati

The 19-kilometre section between Kitui town and Kabati market is pretty much as described in our transect drive from Nairobi to Kitui via Thika, and we will not repeat the details here. It’s the section between Kabati and Migwani that we are interested in.

Tulia

From Kabati one drives north along a murram road towards Tulia. Beginning at an area known as Katheka construction works are on-going to tarmac this road, which will be part of the highway from Kibwezi through Kitui to Usueni in Mwingi. The road will be a link between Kitui County and the counties of Meru and Isiolo.

The soils in this area are fairly fertile and have great potential for agriculture. The general area is not heavily populated.

Tulia is a fairly busy market centre located 30 kilometres north-east of Kitui. Amenities like market sheds and boreholes have been constructed by the County Government of Kitui.

Tulia Market in 2020

A street in Tulia, 2020

Kwa Mbelu

After Tulia Market one continues on the dusty road, which begins an upward climb as one climbs the Mutonguni Hills range. 4 kilometres from Tulia there is a major road junction at a place known as Kwa Mbelu. In a depression below the shopping centre is a major earth dam known as Muthamo. To the right of the junction the road leads to Muthale, which is 2 kilometres away. Here you find the Muthale Girls' School, one of Kenya's top-performing secondary schools. A kilometre down the road is found the Muthale Mission Hospital and Mortuary. 

About 11 kilometres from Kwa Mbelu, still on the Muthale road, is found a large shopping centre known as Kakumuti. The next shopping centre after that is known as Kyaani, and is located 15 kilometres from Kwa Mbelu. Here there is a junction with the road leading to the Kauma area. Also located in this area is Kyaani Girls School, a public secondary school sponsored by the Africa Inland Church (AIC). 

Finally, about 18 kilometres from Kwa Mbelu, one comes to Matinyani shopping centre, which is located 7 kilometres from Kitui town. 

Kwa Siku

To the left, at Kwa Mbelu, the road leads past Kwa Ndemwa shopping centre to a big shopping centre known as Kwa Siku, which is 3 kilometres away. Kwa Siku means ‘Siku’s Place’ in the Kamba language. It is not clear who Siku was but we will endeavour to find out.

At Kwa Siku there is a junction with the road leading towards Thitani Girls' School. The boundary between Kitui West and Mwingi West constituences is found near this shopping centre.

The area around Kwa Siku is fairly elevated, being at the top of the Mutonguni Hills. As you proceed to Migwani the road starts sloping downwards towards Migwani. About 2 kilometres from Old Migwani shopping centre, at an area known as Kwa Usuu, there is a junction with a road leading to Kamandio in the Miambani area of Kitui Central.

Old Migwani

42 kilometres from Kitui you come across a street of shops that make up what is known as Old Migwani Town. Some refer to the area as Kwa Katuli (Katuli’s Place). Said to have been established in the 1920s, this trading centre was initially an Indian bazaar. It is from here that the new Migwani town, which is 1 kilometre along the road, eventually developed.

After Old Migwani you cross a valley that is the origin of the Ikoo River (which runs through Kitui east) and reach the new Migwani Town.

Shops at Old Migwani

Migwani

Migwani is a small but busy town that is located in the northern part of Kitui County, somewhere between Kitui Town and Mwingi Town. The name Migwani is pronounced Mĩw’ani (miwuani). Mĩw’a is the Kamba word for ‘thorns’, and the name Migwani means 'among the thorns'. The origin of the name probably has to do with the thorny acacia tree known as kĩtoo in the Kamba language. The tree is found in plenty in the area.

Formerly part of the defunct Mwingi South Constituency, Migwani is now part of Mwingi West Constituency. The wider area around Migwani town forms Migwani Ward, which is one of the 40 electoral wards of Kitui County.

Migwani hosts numerous government offices, including a mobile law court, as well as a public hospital, a public market, small independent service stations, churches, and schools, notable among which is Migwani Boys, a public secondary school.

The area is predominantly inhabited by the Kamba people who engage in economic activities such as crop farming, goat-keeping, and businesses of various types. The most noticeable thing about the people here is the Kamba dialect that they speak. It has distinct differences in spelling and pronunciation of some words compared with the Kamba spoken in other parts of Kitui and in Machakos and Makueni.

Some words of the Kamba dialect of the Migwani area have the letter R, which the Kamba language does not use. This is probably due to influence from the people of the neighbouring Tharaka-Nithi County whom they interact with. Indeed, one of the electoral wards in the neighbouring Mwingi North Constituency goes by the name Tharaka.

The kĩtoo thorn tree found in the Migwani area

A street in Migwani Town

Migwani Market

Migwani Boys School

Migwani Livestock Yard

Nzeluni and Itoloni Junctions

The road from Migwani continues north towards the Thika-Mwingi-Garissa Highway. 2 kilometres from Migwani a road branches off to the right, leading to the Nzeluni area. Nearby is another junction, also to the right, that leads to the Itoloni area. Paramount Chief Kasina wa Ndoo is said to have hailed from that area.

Kyome Junction

5 kilometres from Migwani another road branches off to the right, leading to the Kyome area. At Kyome, 3 kilometres down this road, there is an Africa Inland Church (AIC) mission station, as well as the Kyome Boys' School, a public secondary school sponsored by the Africa Inland Church. In the same area is found Kyome Primary School, a public primary school also sponsored by the AIC.

The Kyome Boys' School in Migwani

A section of Kyome Boys' School 

A landscape view at Kyome Boys' School

The Kyome Primary School in Migwani

A Section of Kyome Primary School 

Kyome Primary School, Migwani

Thokoa

7 kilometres from Migwani you come upon Thokoa shopping centre, next to which is Thokoa Primary School, a public primary school sponsored by the Salvation Army.

A section of Thokoa shopping centre

Thokoa Primary School

An area of Thokoa, Migwani

Musuani

About 11 kilometres from Migwani you find a shopping centre known as Musuani. It’s the last major trading centre before reaching the Thika-Mwingi-Garissa Highway.

Mbondoni

The road from Migwani joins the Thika-Mwingi-Garissa Highway at an area known as Mbondoni, 34 kilometres from Migwani. To the right the road leads to Mwingi and, beyond that, Garissa. To the left it leads towards Thika, and this is the route we take.    

Nguutani

About 13 kilometres from Mbondoni is found a growing trading centre known as Nguutani. The wider area forms an electoral ward also known as Nguutani.

Kithyoko

Some 18 kilometres from Mbondoni one comes into Kithyoko Market, a busy trading centre, especially on market days like Tuesday. Just before getting to Kithyoko one crosses a deep river valley that marks the boundary of Kitui County with Machakos County.

The general area after Kithyoko is fairly flat and open. As one drives along the road the Thatha Hills (said to host some Buffalo) are clearly visible to the right.

A section of Kithyoko Market

The Thatha Hills as seen from Garissa Road

Kitui-Kibwezi Road Junction

About 36 kilometres from Mbondoni the Kitui-Kibwezi Road branches off to the left. Straight on the journey on the Thika-Mwingi-Garissa Highway is as described in our drive from Nairobi to Kitui via Thika. Similarly, the trip from the Kitui-Kibwezi Road junction (sometimes referred to as Kalandini) to Kitui is also as described in our transect drive from Nairobi to Kitui via Thika, and we will not repeat those details here. We hope you know this area better now.

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Drive From Kitui to Zombe

Our virtual trip today takes us to Zombe. To help us get our bearings better we will discuss distances and directions with reference to Kitui town, which is the largest urban centre and administrative capital of Kitui County.

Zombe (pronounced Sombe) is a small town located 47 kilometres east of Kitui town. The road to Zombe is currently un-tarmacked but is still usable, even in the rainy season. Some of the places that one comes across when driving from Kitui to Zombe are:

Wikililye

Wikililye is a big market centre found 4 kilometres south of Kitui town, along the Kitui-Kibwezi Road. At Wikililye there is a road that branches off towards Katulani and Kavisuni markets. At Wikililye there is also another road that leads to the Mulango area, where the Africa Inland Church (AIC) Bible Institute and Mulango Girls School are found. The Mulango Youth Polytechnic is also found in this area.

The Kitui-Kibwezi Road under construction at Wikililye

Chuluni

Chuluni is a market and administrative centre located 9 kilometres south of Kitui town. In this area there is an Assistant County Commissioner’s office, several other government offices, the Chuluni Girls Secondary School, a number of churches, and numerous shops.

Junction to Zombe

Just after Chuluni one finds a major road junction that leads to Mbitini, Nzambani, Mutitu, and Zombe. From the Kitui-Kibwezi Road one branches left. About a kilometre from this junction is another junction to the right, leading to Mbitini Market.

Nzambani Rock

About two kilometres from the Kitui-Kibwezi Road junction one comes upon the iconic Nzambani Rock, Kitui’s most recognizable landmark. Located 11 kilometres from Kitui town, the rock is a tourist attraction and recreation centre. One can climb to the top of the rock through a steel stairway, or relax, eat, and socialise at a newly-established restaurant known as the Nzambani Rock Sanctuary.

The iconic Nzambani Rock in Kitui

Kiongwe Hills

Along the way to Zombe one encounters the scenic range of the Kiongwe Hills. The road winds again and again as it goes round the hillside. At some points there is a steep drop to the valley below, and it is this risky drop that gave the nickname Ngai ndethya to the area. Ngai ndethya is Kamba for ‘God help me’. This was the silent prayer for mercy by many who used the precarious road, especially when it was un-tarmacked. Any misstep would probably have led to a tragic drop to the valley below.

Perhaps because of the said risks, 5 kilometres of the road around the hills was tarmacked, and is now quite safe to drive on.

The Kiongwe Hills as seen from the Kitui-Zombe Road

Miambani Junction

About 26 kilometres from Kitui town, after descending from the Kiongwe Hills, one finds a junction to the left, with the road leading to Miambani.

Inyuu

Inyuu is a small and quiet shopping centre found 30 kilometres south-east of Kitui town. Inyuu is the Kamba word for ‘nose’. It is not clear why the place was given that name. The most outstanding thing at Inyuu is a big bridge constructed over River Thua, one of the biggest rivers in the area.

The bridge over River Thua

Mutitu Junction

Some 38 kilometres from Kitui town one encounters the road junction leading to Mutitu, at an area known as Mang’ola. To get to Mutitu one branches left, while moving straight on to Zombe. Mutitu is one of the prominent regions of Kitui east, and is referred to as Mutitu wa Ndoa to differentiate it from Mutitu wa Ndei in Makueni County. Popularly known as Mtito Andei, Mutitu wa Ndei is located on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway. Ndei is the Kamba name for the secretary bird, which inhabits the area.

Zombe

The little town of Zombe is found 47 kilometres from Kitui town. Two kilometres before the main town you find some shops, government offices, as well as the Zombe law courts. At Zombe town itself are many more shops, as well as small restaurants and a service station. 

One notable institution in the town is the Africa Inland Church (AIC) Zombe Girls School, a public boarding secondary school. The school is located next to the Africa Inland Church, Zombe.   

Perhaps the most outstanding thing about Zombe (especially to the people of Kitui) is the fact that mangoes from Zombe are the first to mature and ripen, ushering in the mango season in Kitui. For some reason, mangoes from Zombe are ready more than a month before the fruit ripens elsewhere in Kitui. For this reason, by the beginning of December the mangoes are available in markets in Kitui town, while the rest of Kitui does not start harvesting its mangoes until the second or third week of January.

One of the 6 electoral wards in Kitui East Constituency goes by the name Zombe-Mwitika.

A trading centre in Zombe

A street in Zombe Town

 The AIC Zombe Girls School in Zombe Town

The Michelle and Rodham School, a private school located 5 kilometres from Zombe town.

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Drive from Kitui to Meru

I come from Kitui and I have relatives and friends in the Meru region of Kenya. It is natural, therefore, that I have had occasion to use the roads that connect the towns of Kitui and Meru.

Our journey starts at Kitui Town which we will consider to be the kilometre 0 of our journey. One travels towards the junction with Garissa Road (i.e. the Thika-Mwingi-Garissa highway), going past markets and trading centres such as Kabati, Katutu, and Kathiani (not to be confused with Kathiiani in Machakos County).

At the Garissa Road junction you will turn left, travel for 4 kilometres, and encounter Kanyonyooni Market, which is 52 kilometres from Kitui Town. Here (to your right) is found the junction leading towards Embu Town.

35 kilometres along this road you come upon the Kindaruma Dam and the Kindaruma Hydroelectric Power Station that is built there. Apart from the dam (which you drive on top of) the other notable feature here is a number of notices warning passers-by not to take any photographs of the area. I don’t know why that is, but the best thing is to comply and move on to the little town of Kiritiri, 15 kilometres ahead.

The main economic activity in the Kiritiri area appears to be trade in miraa (khat) or muguka, or both. You get to see many Toyota Probox and Toyota Succeed vehicles parked around. It is these cars that are used to distribute the stimulant produce from here to various places. When driving from Kitui you will meet these vehicles being driven recklessly as they head to market destinations like Masii, Kitui, Mutomo, Ikutha, and so on.

3 kilometres from Kiritiri is the junction to Siakago Town, branching off to the right. As you travel straight ahead past the Siakago junction you come to the big town of Embu. This former provincial headquarters of the now-defunct Eastern Province of Kenya is now the administrative headquarters for Embu County. At Embu Town is a major junction, with the road to the left leading to Mwea and the Thika-Nyeri highway, and the road to the right leading towards Meru.

26 Kilometres after Embu is the little town of Runyenjes, which is part of Embu County. 

 A part of Runyenjes Town.

17 kilometres after Runyenjes is the bustling town of Chuka, one of the main urban centres of Tharaka-Nithi County. At Chuka you will find a major public service vehicle (PSV) terminus as well as the Chuka University. 

8 kilometres from Chuka you come upon the dreaded valley of the Nithi Bridge. The gorge, through which the road goes, is fairly steep, and will not fail to impress those who pass by there for the first time. Many people experience a little anxiety when driving through the valley; losing control and going over the bridge would definitely spell doom. 

After the Nithi crossing one goes past the market centre of Katharaka before getting to Chogoria, 9 kilometres from the Nithi Bridge. Chogoria is a busy town characterised by institutions such as the large Presbyterian Church of East Africa (PCEA) Chogoria Hospital, Chogoria Boys High School, and Chogoria Girls High School. The town also has a number of hotels, financial institutions, and a PSV terminus.

26 kilometres from Chogoria is the busy market town of Nkubu. Here, too, you will find a number of hotels and restaurants, financial service providers, and plenty of vegetable vendors, especially along the highway.

 

A guest house at Nkubu.

12 kilometres from Nkubu, and 230 kilometres from Kitui, is the big town of Meru. Located in a well-watered and agriculturally productive highland area, Meru Town serves as the administrative headquarters for Meru County. As opportunity arises we will discuss what goes on in Meru.

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