Kawangware

Kawangware is one of Nairobi's lower-end residential areas. Kawangware covers about 10 square kilometres, and is rather densely populated. The region has also developed into a thriving commercial area.

In terms of location, Kawangware is roughly bordered to the north by Kangemi, to the east by Lavington, to the south by Riruta-Satellite, and to the west by Kabete and Dagoretti.

Kawangware, which is informally referred to as 'ungwaro', in sheng (slang), is broadly divided into two main sections - Kawangware 46 and Kawangware 56. Kawangware 46 is so-named after the public transport route that traverses the area. This is the general area that begins at 'Congo' (the junction of Gitanga Road and Macharia Road) and runs all the way to 'BP' area (the junction of Gitanga Road and Naivasha Road, near Precious Blood School, Riruta).

The junction of Naivasha Road and Gitanga Road, found at the 'BP' area, located at the border of Kawangware and Riruta

Some of the villages that make up Kawangware '46' include 'Coast' (so-named after a butchery there that was known as Coast Butchery), and Msalaba. Kawangware Primary School, that was renowned for its prowess in drama, and the Kawangware market are also located in the '46' vicinity. The Kenya Bus Service Management has got a garage and overnight terminus at the end of '46', near Precious Blood School.

 The gate of Kawangware Primary School

Kawangware '56', on its part, is named after the public service route serving the area. '56' is the general area that starts at 'Congo' and goes all the way to Kanungaga, not far from the valley that forms the border with Kangemi. Kanungaga is the terminus of bus route 56.

'Congo', which is at the border between Kawangware and Lavington, has for many years been known for its numerous Busaa drinking dens complete with traditional isukuti music players. Many years ago, I used to see the ingredients of the Luhya traditional beer being roasted on large metallic trays over wood fires. One could also see groups of men seated in and around the dens, enjoying the porridge-like brew. Some of the revelers who were overcome by the intoxicating effects of the beer could be seen dancing merrily by the roadside.

 A section of Kawangware '56' near 'Congo'

Some of the 'villages' forming Kawangware '56' include Kabiro, Stage 2, and Kanungaga. Kanungaga area was made famous by prophetess Mary Akatsa who has her church there. If I remember well, the church was known as New Jerusalem. In 1988, at the height of her ministry, she claimed that Jesus Christ had visited one of her church services. I remember seeing a picture of the so-called Jesus and thinking to myself that he looked more Indian than Jewish. But, at the time, 'Dada Mary' (as Akatsa was popularly known) was a huge sensation, and not many in the area dared question the authenticity of this Jesus. Pictures of the man were printed and sold to church members as well as interested area residents.

Other outlying areas that are part of Kawangware '56' include Kamitha and Gatina which border Lavington, as well as Muslim, which stretches all the way to the route 46 bus terminus.

 A section of Muslim area in Kawangware

 

 A stretch of Gitanga Road, at the terminus of bus route 46

Besides Kawangware '46' and Kawangware '56', the areas on both sides of Naivasha Road, beginning at Deliverance Church, Riruta, all the way to the Precious Blood School area, are also considered as part of Kawangware. Included in this stretch are areas such as 'Ciugu-ini', Kawangware market, and 'BP'. 'BP' was so named after the Shell petrol station there, which was formerly a BP franchise service station.

 Activity at the Kawangware Market

The land in Kawangware is mostly owned by members of the Kikuyu ethnic community, who are indigenous to the area. Most residents of Kawangware '56' are members of the Luhya community, who hail from Western Kenya. They reside here as tenants in the many housing estates owned by Kikuyu landlords. The Luhya population in '56' is significant, such that bus companies serving western Kenya have opened booking offices here.

Kawangware '46', on its part, is a little more cosmopolitan. Many of the Kikuyu landlords have also remained on their land in the '46' area, living next to the rental flats they build.

Public transport is somewhat equally owned between members of the Kikuyu and the Kisii ethnic communities. Kisii matatu owners have largely concentrated on the '56' route while majority of the Kikuyu ply '46'.

Kawangware is an intensely religious area, and is dotted with numerous churches. Among the leading denominations here are the Anglican Church, Redeemed Gospel Church, Full Gospel Church, and Deliverance Church. Others include the Free Pentecostal Church and the Orthodox Church. Of note is the fact that Kawangware is replete with indigenous African churches. The most common of these is the African Divine Church (ADC) whose members hold large processions along the road on Sundays. They will be seen in their white robes, prayer caps, and headscarves, singing and dancing to the music of drums and triangles. At the head of the procession is always the person bearing the denomination's flag.

Interestingly, Kawangware, though in Nairobi County, is part of the Dagoretti North electoral constituency.

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Drive to Kitui Again

Apart from the Machakos route, there is another way of accessing Kitui from Nairobi. This route goes via Thika Town, and is 187 kilometres long. From Thika, one travels along the Thika-Mwingi highway (Garissa Road).

The first significant point along this route is the Donyo Sabuk/Kilimambogo junction that leads to the twin towns of Kangundo and Tala. The junction, which branches off to the right, also leads to the 14 falls on the Athi River, and is located about 30 kilometres from Thika.

The area to the left of Garissa Road, at this point, is dominated by pineapple plantations. The next major point that one comes to is Ngoliba Market, found 13 kilometres from Donyo Sabuk. The little Centre is surrounded by vast plantations of pineapples and coffee.

5 kilometers from Ngoliba, one comes to the National Youth Service (NYS) Yatta Field Station. The institution's buildings are situated on both sides of the road.

11 kilometers from the NYS establishment, you come to the Kithimani Town junction. This is the junction to the road that leads to Makutano Market on the Machakos-Kitui highway. The road became famous when, in 2013, the Machakos County Government tarmacked the entire 33 kilometers in 3 months and at half the conventional cost.

Kithimani is an important government administrative centre. There is a police station and law courts, among other government offices. At the Kithimani junction you will be greeted by scores of eager hawkers selling fruits and vegetables. When driving, one has to be careful not to knock any of them down.

9 kilometers from Kithimani is a small town called Sofia. 7 kilometers from Sofia, and 66 kilometers from Kitui, is Matuu Town. The town has grown to be very big and busy in recent times. It is complete with schools, hotels, churches, service stations, retail shops, and government offices. It is difficult to imagine that at Kenya's independence, in 1963, there was only one shop here. Of note is the fact that the late former Commissioner of the Kenya Police, Philip Kilonzo, hailed from the Matuu area.

14 kilometers from Matuu is Kanyoonyoo Market. At this shopping centre is found the junction of the road to Masinga and Embu, which branches off to the left. There is not much in the surrounding area except vast acres of uninhabited land used for ranching.

4 kilometers from Kanyoonyoo, one comes to the junction with the road leading to Kitui and Kibwezi. The road branches off to the right, towards Kitui which is 48 kilometres away. This junction, although in the general area of Kanyoonyoo, is known as Kalandini. Kalandini is an old name for the place, which many of the younger people may not be familiar with. In the '70s and '80s, before the road to Kitui was tarmacked, there was a police barrier near this junction. This barrier is probably what was changed to be the road block we have there today.

There is no human settlement and commercial activity at all at this junction. The scenic view of the countryside, however, makes the drive worthwhile. From Kalandini one goes past the two market centres of Kathiani and Katutu before coming to Kabati, a rapidly growing town located 19 kilometers north of Kitui. Kabati is a government administrative centre that has a market. From Kabati there is an untarmacked road that branches off to Migwani Town, eventually reaching Mwingi Town.

From Kabati, the next milestone is the Syongila junction, found 3 kilometers from Kitui Town. The Syongila junction is the point at which the Kitui-Kibwezi Road meets the Machakos-Kitui Road. Not far from Syongila, to the left of the Kitui-Kibwezi Road, is the Matinyani shopping centre.

From the Syongila junction you then drive into Kitui Town.

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