Saturday, 19 March 2016

Kawangware



Kawangware is one of Nairobi's lower-end residential areas. Kawangware covers about 10 square kilometres, and is rather densely populated. The region has also developed into a thriving commercial area.

In terms of location, Kawangware is roughly bordered to the north by Kangemi, to the east by Lavington, to the south by Riruta-Satellite, and to the west by Kabete and Dagoretti.

Kawangware, which is informally referred to as 'ungwaro', in sheng (slang), is broadly divided into two main sections - Kawangware 46 and Kawangware 56. Kawangware 46 is so-named after the public transport route that traverses the area. This is the general area that begins at 'Congo' (the junction of Gitanga Road and Macharia Road) and runs all the way to 'BP' area (the junction of Gitanga Road and Naivasha Road, near Precious Blood School, Riruta).


The junction of Naivasha Road and Gitanga Road, found at the 'BP' area, located at the border of Kawangware and Riruta

Some of the villages that make up Kawangware '46' include 'Coast' (so-named after a butchery there that was known as Coast Butchery), and Msalaba. Kawangware Primary School, that was renowned for its prowess in drama, and the Kawangware market are also located in the '46' vicinity. The Kenya Bus Service Management has got a garage and overnight terminus at the end of '46', near Precious Blood School.


 The gate of Kawangware Primary School

Kawangware '56', on its part, is named after the public service route serving the area. '56' is the general area that starts at 'Congo' and goes all the way to Kanungaga, not far from the valley that forms the border with Kangemi. Kanungaga is the terminus of bus route 56.

'Congo', which is at the border between Kawangware and Lavington, has for many years been known for its numerous Busaa drinking dens complete with traditional isukuti music players. Many years ago, I used to see the ingredients of the Luhya traditional beer being roasted on large metallic trays over wood fires. One could also see groups of men seated in and around the dens, enjoying the porridge-like brew. Some of the revelers who were overcome by the intoxicating effects of the beer could be seen dancing merrily by the roadside.


 A section of Kawangware '56' near 'Congo'

Some of the 'villages' forming Kawangware '56' include Kabiro, Stage 2, and Kanungaga. Kanungaga area was made famous by prophetess Mary Akatsa who has her church there. If I remember well, the church was known as New Jerusalem. In 1988, at the height of her ministry, she claimed that Jesus Christ had visited one of her church services. I remember seeing a picture of the so-called Jesus and thinking to myself that he looked more Indian than Jewish. But, at the time, 'Dada Mary' (as Akatsa was popularly known) was a huge sensation, and not many in the area dared question the authenticity of this Jesus. Pictures of the man were printed and sold to church members as well as interested area residents.

Other outlying areas that are part of Kawangware '56' include Kamitha and Gatina which border Lavington, as well as Muslim, which stretches all the way to the route 46 bus terminus.


 A section of Muslim area in Kawangware


 

 A stretch of Gitanga Road, at the terminus of bus route 46

Besides Kawangware '46' and Kawangware '56', the areas on both sides of Naivasha Road, beginning at Deliverance Church, Riruta, all the way to the Precious Blood School area, are also considered as part of Kawangware. Included in this stretch are areas such as 'Ciugu-ini', Kawangware market, and 'BP'. 'BP' was so named after the Shell petrol station there, which was formerly a BP franchise service station.


 Activity at the Kawangware Market

The land in Kawangware is mostly owned by members of the Kikuyu ethnic community, who are indigenous to the area. Most residents of Kawangware '56' are members of the Luhya community, who hail from Western Kenya. They reside here as tenants in the many housing estates owned by Kikuyu landlords. The Luhya population in '56' is significant, such that bus companies serving western Kenya have opened booking offices here.
Kawangware '46', on its part, is a little more cosmopolitan. Many of the Kikuyu landlords have also remained on their land in the '46' area, living next to the rental flats they build.

Public transport is somewhat equally owned between members of the Kikuyu and the Kisii ethnic communities. Kisii matatu owners have largely concentrated on the '56' route while majority of the Kikuyu ply '46'.

Kawangware is an intensely religious area, and is dotted with numerous churches. Among the leading denominations here are the Anglican Church, Redeemed Gospel Church, Full Gospel Church, and Deliverance Church. Others include the Free Pentecostal Church and the Orthodox Church. Of note is the fact that Kawangware is replete with indigenous African churches. The most common of these is the African Divine Church (ADC) whose members hold large processions along the road on Sundays. They will be seen in their white robes, prayer caps, and headscarves, singing and dancing to the music of drums and triangles. At the head of the procession is always the person bearing the denomination's flag.

Interestingly, Kawangware, though in Nairobi County, is part of the Dagoretti North electoral constituency.

-The End-

2 comments:

  1. Thanks for the narration and pictures .I can vaguely remember these places which have obviously changed a lot.Last time i visited these places was in 1994.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes. A lot has changed. In particular, the area is heavily congested with vehicle and pedestrian traffic, as well as hawkers.

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